The term "Trade Beads" typically applies to beads made predominately in Venice and Bohemia and other European countries from the late 1400s through to the early 1900s and traded in Africa and the Americas. Many of these beads have been attributed to being made in Germany, France and the Netherlands as well.

The heyday of this "trade" period was from the mid 1800s through the early 1900s when millions of these beads were produced and traded in Africa. The Venetians dominated this market and produced the majority of the beads sold during this time. The J.F. Sick and Co, based in Germany and Holland was one of the largest bead brokers/importers during this period. Moses Lewin Levin was a bead importer/exporter who operated out of London from 1830 to 1913. You can see four of the Levin trade bead sample cards from 1865 in The History of Beads (Dubin).

The popularity of these beads was revived in the late 1960s when they began to be exported from Africa into the United States and Europe. The term "Trade Beads" became very popular during this time period and is still used for the same bead reference today. The millefiori beads were also called "Love Beads" and used in necklaces with peace symbols during the Hippie days.

As the popularity and availability of these old beads grew they started getting "named". We started hearing terms like "Russian Blues", "Dutch Donuts", "King Beads". Although some of these folklore names are totally meaningless...ie...."Lewis and Clarke" beads, they do describe a specific type of bead.

And today these beads are more popular and collectable than ever. Thousands of these beads are in private collections around the world. The African Traders are having to go deeper and deeper into Africa to find more of these beads and many styles which were readily available just 5 years ago are no longer seen today.

To learn more about "trade beads" please read, The History of Beads (Dubin), Collectable Beads(Liu), Ornaments From the Past: Bead Studies After Beck (Bead Study Trust), The Bead Is Constant (Wilson), Arizona Highways (July1971), Africa Adorned (Fisher) and the John and Ruth Picard series of books; Volume III - Fancy Beads from the West African Trade, Volume IV - White Hearts, Feather and Eye Beads from the West African Trade, VolumeV - Russian Blues, Faceted and Fancy Beads from the West African Trade, Volume VI - Millefiori Beads from the West African Trade and Volume VII - Chevron and Nueva Cadiz Beads.

There are exceptional museum collections of trade beads at the Museum of Mankind in London, the Pitt River Museum in Oxford, the Royal Museum of Central Africa in Belgium, the Murano Museum of Glass in Italy, the Tropical Royal Institute of Amsterdam, the Bead Museum in Arizona, US and the Picard Trade Bead Museum in California, US to name a few.

I find that the most intriguing aspects to these beads are how did they survive a hundred or more years of wear and how did they travel through at least three continents. Another mystery is who wore them before us? I don't know about you but my imagination runs wild just thinking about it!

Recommended reading: HISTORY OF BEADS (Dubin)

Men and women have adorned themselves with jewelry since long before the age of reason! Garlands of flowers, bracelets of woven grass, shells, and stone; such were the first decorations to beautify the human body. We may have been wearing jewelry as far back as 75,000 years ago - 30,000 years earlier than previously believed - according to a recent report by National Geographic News.

Over the millennia, jewelry styles and materials have evolved in step with the advances of civilization. From the Stone Age to the Bronze Age, from the Iron Age to the Industrial Revolution (and seemingly back again!), jewelry styles have transformed, modernized, and then often returned to their most basic forms and essential elements. So, too, has the significance of jewelry evolved through the ages. Fundamentally, jewelry has always remained an adornment, but an adornment that variously transformed into a symbol of love, religion, wealth, prestige, rank, class, and sometimes authority.

Historically, rings in particular have held significant import beyond mere physical enhancement. Clergy prized "heavenly" blue sapphire rings. Signet rings have served as official seals. Others have considered rings as icons of physical and spiritual protection, bearers of magic strengths and powers. Rings have served as modes of identification - religious, political, institutional, and educational, and they have even served as pass keys into secret societies. In the 1st Century A.D., rings of thin iron were given to brides-to-be in Rome. It may not have been until 1475, in Italy, when Constanzo Sforza gave Camillia d'Aragona a diamond ring to signify their betrothal that the tradition of diamond engagement rings began.

In many cultures, at various times, jewelry and jewelry beads have been used as currency. Perhaps most memorably, in relatively recent history, in 1626, Native Americans accepted too few strings of European glass beads from a Dutch immigrant in trade for the island now known as Manhattan. Three centuries later, in 1916, the renowned jeweler Jacques Cartier traded just two pearl necklaces for a parcel of land in Manhattan - where he opened his first store.

Precious metals, stones, pearls, and beads have carried a host of meanings, intentions, and significance, depending on the era and the culture. Love tokens, lockets containing a portrait or snippet of hair, Victorian jet mourning jewelry, Burmese rubies inserted beneath the skin to protect warriors in battle. Jewelry has acquired, shed, and in many cases re-acquired a multitude of intriguing meanings.

In that same spirit of transformation, in different regions of the world, jewelry has attached itself to different parts of the body. In India, jewelry has long reigned supreme and extravagant, ornamenting almost every aspect of a woman, from hair to nose to ankle to toe. Jewelry likewise found its way to the feet in 18th Century England, but there, it was attached to shoes instead of toes, transforming mundane moccasins into ornately buckled masterpieces.

The 21st Century has renewed the ancient rave and reverence for jewelry, and perhaps even taken it to new heights, again from hair to toe - and this time, absolutely everywhere imaginable in between! And, where will it take you?

Information obtained from Lost Cities Beads Website at: www.LostCitiesBeads.com

Prices mentioned in Lost Cities' emails, blogs, handouts, websites, etc. are effective the date of publication. They are subject to market conditions and availability and may be modified as necessary at Lost Cities' discretion.
Lost Cities Beads
2802 Juan St. #14
San Diego, CA 92110

I love being a metalsmith!!!! And, I just recently learned that my Dad was a metalsmith while in the Navy during WWII! Looks like I came by my passion honestly! Metal is what makes our world go round and here's a quick overview of the metal composition of our magnificent planet, EARTH. And most likely it's TMI!

BRASS
Brass is an alloy of copper and zinc, sometimes including small amounts of other metals, but usually 67% copper and 33% zinc. It comes in various shapes and tempers. This wire is generally much stiffer and more difficult to work with in wire sculpting than sterling silver or gold-filled wire. It takes on a lovely polish, but tarnishes and becomes dull very quickly. Some jewelers work exclusively with brass wire specifically because of these properties. Jewelry made from brass wire can be quite beautiful and saleable.

BRONZE
Bronze is an alloy containing at least 60% copper plus tin and sometimes other metals. Around 2500 BC humanity used fire in the creation of bronze, an alloy of copper and tin often with a small amount of lead, changed the landscape of humanity.

The metal was first used for making tools and weapons. It soon became valued for its aesthetic beauty and a myriad of different objects. Because it could be re-melted, many early traders also viewed it as a commodity. Thus, the precious bronze images revered by their kings were often among the booty of warring armies, carried off and melted down for some other use.

COPPER
Copper is a reddish-gold in color. This wonderfully versatile metal was the first metal used by man for tools, implements, weapons and artwork. Copper use predates recorded history, and though it was later replaced by bronze and iron for weapons and tools, its popularity and usefulness has not waned in thousands of years. Copper is malleable and easily worked by chasing, hammering and engraving. Copper is very malleable, but not suited for casting in its pure form, although alloys containing a high percentage of copper may be.

Copper is quite inexpensive, is great for practice wire, or in two- or three-toned pieces. Copper is said to have healing properties for rheumatic or arthritic conditions. The only real drawback of copper, at least for jewelry applications, is that it oxidizes quite readily and will leave a green or black mark on the skin. To prevent that discoloration, copper jewelry is often coated with a clear protective surface, such as an acrylic, but the coating eventually wears away as well.

Copper will darken and discolor with age, which is called the patina affect. If you prefer to keep your copper wire bright, you can simply polish it. Sometimes soaking copper in white vinegar will clean it up, but do not leave it in this solution for very long.

GOLD
Gold jewelry never goes out of style, and for good reason, because gold is as wearer-friendly as it is beautiful. Pure gold doesn't react with other elements to create tarnish. Sometimes people have allergy or staining problems with metals when combined with gold, but the gold itself is rarely a problem.

Gold can be manipulated nearly any way the artisan desires. Solid gold is durable, so it is a better choice for jewelry you'll wear regularly. If you have allergies to nickel or other metals, choose items that have high gold content, such as 18K or 22K gold jewelry.

For pieces that will last a lifetime and beyond, buy the highest quality gold your budget allows.

HOW PURE IS YOUR GOLD JEWELRY?
Chances are the ring on your finger is marked 18K, 14K, or 10K, with the K standing for karat, the system used to describe the percentage of pure gold an item contains. The higher the karat number, the higher the percentage of gold in your gold jewelry.

• 24K gold is pure gold.
• 18K gold contains 18 parts gold and 6 parts of 1 or more additional metals, making it 75% gold.
• 14K gold contains 14 parts gold and 10 parts of 1 or more additional metals, making it 58.3% gold.
• 12K gold contains 12 parts gold and 12 parts of 1 or more additional metals, making it 50% gold.
• 10K gold contains 10 parts gold and 14 parts of 1 or more additional metals, making it 41.7% gold.10K gold is the minimum karat that can be called "gold" in the United States. European gold jewelry is marked with numbers that indicate their percentage of gold.

WHY OTHER METALS ARE MIXED WITH GOLD?
You'll find examples of pure gold jewelry, but pure gold is soft and isn't practical for daily wear. Other metals are mixed with it to make it more durable (and to lower its cost).

Adding other metals to the mix also allows metallurgists to change the color of gold. Palladium or nickel can be added to create white gold. Adding copper produces a rose or pink tint, while silver gives gold a greenish cast.

When metals are added to the gold the result is an alloy, a blended mixture of the metals that you can think of as a very expensive cake batter.

GOLD FILLED
Gold filled items are made by combining a layer or layers of gold alloy to a base metal (usually brass), then rolling or drawing the metal to the desired thickness and shape. It has a long life and can be worn by most people without reactions or difficulties. Gold filled or plated jewelry is suitable for jewelry that you wear occasionally.

GOLD PLATED
The gold layer in gold plated jewelry is typically thinner than the gold in gold filled jewelry, so it usually wears away more quickly. Plating is done in different ways. There are many ways to apply a coating of gold onto a much less expensive metal, reducing the item's cost. The thicker the layer of gold, the less likely it is to wear away easily and expose the metal underneath. You might see terms such as gold washed used to describe a very thin layer of gold--one that won't be very durable.

NIOBIUM
Niobium items are made of a hypo-allergenic metal first engineered to protect hypersonic aerospace vehicles from extreme conditions. After manufacturing into the desired shape, such as ear wires, headpins, eye pins or jump rings, the naturally grey base metal niobium is then anodized to create signature colors. Most people who are metal-sensitive can comfortably wear niobium.

PEWTER
Pewter is a metal alloy that is largely made from tin with trace elements, like bismuth, copper and/or silver added for hardness. Older or classic pewter contains tin while lower grades of pewter may contain lead or zinc and have a darker silver-grey color. Newer or modern pewter uses antimony or bismuth rather than lead. Polished pewter has a silvery luster. Pewter can be easily worked by several different methods, the most popular being casting of charms and hammering of larger items.

STERLING SILVER

Silver is a soft metal in its pure form, too soft to be used for jewelry and other items, so it's mixed with other metals to make it more durable. A popular silver mixture, called an alloy, is known as sterling silver. Most items are made of 92-1/2% pure silver and 7-1/2% copper or other alloy, proportions fixed by law. Sterling silver will "patina" in time, that is, its color will take on an "antique" look.

Store your sterling silver jewelry in tarnish prevention clothe or bags. The treated cloth slows down the tarnishing process and keeps the jewelry from rubbing against harder jewelry that can scratch it. Clean sterling silver with a phosphate free detergent. A polishing cloth or abrasive cleaner is a good choice for removing light tarnish.

Sterling silver jewelry worn continually often develops a lovely patina, a kind of glow combined with darkened areas. If you like the look, leave it alone. If you prefer a bright and shiny look for your sterling silver, use polish to restore the jewelry to its original appearance.

GERMAN SILVER
German Silver, also known as Nickel Silver, is an alloy metal, is usually about 60% copper, 20% nickel, and 20% zinc. As you can see, there is no silver in German Silver. German Silver wire is very inexpensive and you can create lot's of jewelry for pennies. It should be noted that about 1 person in 20 has a metal allergy to nickel.

VERMEIL
Vermeil is made up from gold-plated silver; or occasionally, gold-plated bronze. Vermeil has a very rich gold color, usually darker than high-karat gold.

	Chevron Beads: Venetian, 1500’s to 1900’s. One of the most famous trading beads, especially to Africa. Made using a glass mold with successive layers of glass which are ground to reveal the underlying patterns. The 7 layered chevrons are believed to date to the 1500’s.
	Kiffa Beads: Produced by women in the Saharan country of Mauritania near the town of Kiffa, they are one of the few beads used in Africa which are produced there, and are unique in that they are made by women. The painstaking process involves applying powdered glass over a bead core to make the beautiful patterns and then "firing" the bead in a used tin can. One woman can make only 2-4 beads in a day.
	Majapahit Beads: Produced in Kingdoms of Eastern and Central Java from 900 AD and before. They show the influence of Roman and Middle Eastern beads from before the time of Islam (Pre 700AD). The techniques include application of a cane of glass in a mosaic pattern similar to the later Venetian Millefiore beads. The "feathered" pattern on some beads is produced by "trailing" through applied glass stripes while the glass is hot. Bird beads are one to the most famous of the beads found during this time period.
	Millefiore Trade Beads: Made in Venice, 1800’s to early 1900’s. Technique involves using slices of glass canes to create a mosaic pattern. The most widely traded bead to Africa. Patterns trace their history back to the earlier Roman, Middle Eastern and Asian beads.
	Peking Glass: Glass beads made for use in Court costumes during the Ching Dynasty (1644-1911) and for trade to minorities, such as the hilltribes on the Chinese borders, and to the Americas. They range from simple single color turquoise "Padre" beads traded to the American Southwest, the Pacific Northwest, and Alaska to elaborately formed beads using a millefiore technique to insert a "starburst" design.
	Pyu Beads: Beads found in the Pyu trading kingdom which flourished in current Burma approximately 500 AD. Beads include a combination of etched agate, etched carnelian and glass beads from as far West as Rome and as far East as China.
	Thai/Khmer Beads: It is likely these beads were first made in what is now Thailand & Kampuchea in the first centuries AD, and they are still being made today. Their manufacture involves creating beads from thin strips of pure silver, filling the inside with a tree resin for strength and then engraving and chasing the designs by hand. The beads’ shapes and designs are inextricably bound to the Thai and Khmer religious, court, and village traditions from which they arose; and were likely influenced by the prominent Indian culture of the time.
	Tradewind Beads: Named for the winds that carried traders on the seas, these beads were produced in India, Sri Lanka and Southwest Asia from 300BC until approximately 1000AD. These simple beads were traded throughout Asia and are found as far away as Timbuktu in West Africa, the Middle East and the Roman Empire. Even today they are still required in certain ceremonies in islands of Eastern Indonesia.
	Venetian "Fancy" Beads: Made in Venice for trade to Africa and other parts of the world including Asia and the Americas, 1600’s to early 1900’s. Technique includes decorating an individual bead by "trailing" hot glass (like frosting a cake) while working at a bead making lamp.

http://www.hohbead.com/home/Bead Education.htm

No! Not me, Silly! Murano glass! Brilliant, saturated colors radiating beneath an impossibly clear glass surface. Glass so striking, it bestows a noticeable uniqueness, an air of purity and rich history to any design. It's no wonder the remarkable glass created on a tiny Italian island just several hundred meters froms Venice is, and has been for centuries, among the most prized in the world.

In 1291, to discourage fires in the wood-structured city, Venice's ruling body voted to banish glassmaking businesses and their ovens from the city. Forced to leave Venice proper, the rejected artisans settled on the small island of Murano. There, the city's glass masters turned their banishment into an extraordinary blessing. The glassmakers' newfound proximity to one another fostered a guild-like style of entrepreneurship resulting in unprecedented quality and discovery. They shared their triumphs and discoveries with each other and agreed that only the finest glass would leave their tiny oasis. And that's exactly why I incorporate these lucious beads into many of my designs.

With your first step onto Murano, you enter a romantic history of diligent workmanship, impeccable artistry and quiet pride. Ready to pack your suitcases? I sure am!

Have you ever wondered what the heck those tiny metal body parts are all about? Well, to start with, milagro means miracle in Spanish and there's actually magic and meaning to these miniature representations. Milagros derive their meanings in several  ways. They all have a traditional and a literal meaning. Your thoughts, your hopes and desires attach themselves to the milagro, making it a tool in which to carry your intention. For instance, all body parts are a symbol of good health for that part of the body. They may also carry other symbolic or personal meanings and intentions absorbed by the wearer.

So, if a friend is about to have an eye operation, the gift of an "eye" milagro helps to say, "I wish you well." A pair of lungs can say, "I hope your cold gets better." An ear milagro can suggest that someone be a better listener. An axe milagro might suggest that a relationship should end. So you see, it's good to know what these little pieces of metal are saying!

In Latin America, you'll most likely see them in churches where statues are adorned with tiny arms, legs, animals, praying figures, hearts and other "prayers." Horse or sheep figures are left to ask for help in healing sick animals or for ensuring fertility. Students leave tiny "books" as a request for academic divine intervention. Hearts are often left to thank the saint for answering the prayers of the lovelorn. You get the idea...... I have always been fascinated by these little protective messages and I love to feature them in my Latin designs! So keep a look out for these little treasures and see what they can do for you!

How many of you have had someone walk up to you, drool over your stunning piece of turquoise and then ask, "what kind of turquoise is it?" Well, now you get to impress them with the answer!

Recently, I came across an incredible website that finally answered my questions about such things!  The info was so cool that I could hardly wait to post it as my first entry on my new Info Blog! So, my little gift for you today is an article on Natural American Turquoise Stones posted on e-pueblo.com. Enjoy! http://www.e-pueblo.com/products/turquoise.shtml.